- Full-tang fixed knife (Morakniv, £15-25 — genuinely all you need) + sharpening stone (£10, a dull knife is dead weight)
- Folding saw (£15-25, outcuts a hatchet for its weight) + hatchet/axe (£25-40) + machete if vegetated area (£20)
- Crowbar (£15 — rescue, salvage, defence of doorways), claw hammer, adjustable wrenches (also shuts off your gas/water mains — learn where those valves are TODAY), pliers, screwdrivers, multitool (£20-70)
- Shovel (£20), bow saw, hand drill/brace (£20 used), work gloves ×3, safety glasses
- Cordage: 100 m paracord (£15), rope, wire, duct tape ×5, zip ties, tarps ×3 (8×10', £10 each — shelter, rain catch, ground sheet, stretcher)
- Repair: sewing kit + heavy needles, wire, epoxy, spare buttons/zips, bike puncture kit (a bicycle is Phase-3 transport + cargo hauler — panniers/trailer)
- Buckets. You cannot have too many buckets.
Tools and the workshop
A budget hardware-store kit: knife, saw, crowbar, wrenches. Know where your mains valves are.
Going deeper
Everything above is from the household playbook. What follows expands on it.
The page above is a good list and it contains one instruction in passing that deserves the whole first section of this one.
The three valves
Learn where these are today, and operate each one at least once. The parent page says this about the gas and water. It is the single most valuable line in the chapter and it takes twenty minutes.
The stopcock is the one that fails. A valve that has not moved in fifteen years seizes, and it seizes silently, so you find out on the night the pipe bursts. Exercise it twice a year, gently, and if it will not move, that is a plumber on an ordinary Tuesday rather than an emergency at two in the morning.
Label all three with a luggage tag. In the dark, with a torch in your teeth, a labelled valve is a different object from an unlabelled one.
What actually breaks
Preparedness lists imagine felling trees. Households mostly meet five failures, and all five are handled with what the parent page already lists.
- A burst pipe. Water off at the stopcock, open every tap to drain the system, catch what you can, and get the electrics off if water is anywhere near them. Frozen pipes burst when they thaw, not while frozen, so the damage arrives with the warm spell.
- A broken window. Board it or sheet it. The parent page's advice to cut the plywood now and label it per window is genuinely excellent and almost nobody does it. A tarp and a batten will hold in the meantime.
- A roof leak. A tarp, weighted, and a bucket. Trace the drip upslope; water travels along rafters before it falls.
- A blocked drain. Rods or a plunger, and it becomes a sanitation problem fast.
- A door that will not lock, after a forced entry or a warped frame. A hasp, a bar, and screws long enough to reach the stud.
Notice what they have in common. All five are contained rather than repaired, by somebody who knew where the valve was and had a tarp. That is the workshop actually doing its job.
The tools that earn their place
The parent page's list is sound. From use rather than theory, these are the ones that repay their cost first.
- A folding saw. Outcuts a hatchet for its weight, as the parent says, and is far safer for a tired person.
- A crowbar. Opens, closes, lifts, levers and persuades. There is no substitute.
- Buckets. The parent page says you cannot have too many and that is correct. They are water, waste, storage, laundry, mixing and carrying.
- Tarps. Roof, shelter, ground sheet, rain catch, window, stretcher, privacy screen.
- A headtorch, which belongs in the tool list rather than the lighting one, because every repair happens in the dark or in a cupboard.
- Gloves, and a spare pair. The cheapest injury prevention available.
- A stopcock key, which costs almost nothing and is useless to borrow at midnight.
And the one genuinely missing item: a moisture meter is not it, a decent pair of pliers is not it. It is a bucket of assorted screws. Every improvised repair in a house comes down to fixing one thing to another thing.
Sharp is safe
A blunt tool is the dangerous one. It needs more force, it skids off the cut instead of biting, and it goes into the hand holding the work. The parent page's line that a dull knife is dead weight understates it: a dull knife is a hazard.
- Learn to sharpen before you need to. A stone and ten minutes on a Sunday.
- Cut away from yourself, always, and never toward the hand steadying the piece.
- Sit down for fiddly work. Most tool injuries happen to somebody standing awkwardly and reaching.
- Stop when tired. Fatigue is the common factor in almost every workshop accident, and in an emergency everybody is tired.
Injury without a hospital
This is the part that changes the risk calculation, and it is why the section above matters more than it looks.
In ordinary times a bad cut is an inconvenience. You go to A and E, it gets cleaned and closed, and you are home by evening.
In a disruption, the same cut is a different event. There may be no stitching, no ready antibiotic, and no easy transport. A hand injury takes away the person who was doing the work. An infected wound with no treatment is genuinely dangerous, and the entire wound care chapter of this app exists because of it.
So the honest summary of this chapter is: the best tool in the box is the one that stops you needing the medical chapter. Gloves, glasses, a sharp blade, a seated working position and a willingness to stop when tired are worth more than anything else on the list.
What this is based on
- Once a gas supply has been turned off at the meter it should be restored only by a Gas Safe registered engineer, and appliances relit by them
- Internal stopcocks are commonly seized through disuse, and are more likely to fail at the moment they are needed than at any other time
- A dull blade requires more force and slips more readily than a sharp one, which is why sharp tools are the safer ones
- Tetanus is contracted through contaminated wounds including small punctures, and protection depends on being up to date with the vaccination schedule rather than on wound size
- Deep or gaping wounds are generally closed within a limited window, so a wound needing closure is a reason to reach care rather than to improvise
- Water expands on freezing, so pipes burst when frozen sections thaw and the released water escapes through the split
Last reviewed 2026-08-04