4 L per person per day. Store, harvest, filter, disinfect.
Need: 4 L (1 gal) per person per day minimum (2 L drinking, 2 L cooking/hygiene). Realistic comfort: 8–10 L.
Store first (Phase 0)
Water bricks / stackable 15–20 L jerry cans (~£10-20 each) — fill from tap now, add 8 drops plain unscented bleach per gallon (2 drops per litre), rotate every 6–12 months. Target: 2 weeks minimum, 1 month better.
Bathtub bladder (WaterBOB, ~£35) — 100 gal (~379 L), fill in 20 min the moment things look bad.
Rainwater harvesting (the renewable core)
Maths: every 1 mm of rain on 1 m² of roof = ~0.9 L. A 100 m² roof in a 60 mm/month climate = ~5,400 L/month. More than a family needs.
Budget build (~£100-250): rain barrel (55 gal (~208 L), £30-75, or a food-grade 220 L used barrel for £20-40) + downpipe diverter (£25) + first-flush diverter (£30 or DIY from PVC — the first 10–20 L of a rainfall carries roof filth; dump it) + mosquito mesh on every opening + spigot near the base.
Step up (~£300-600): 275 gal (1,000 L) IBC tote — used food-grade ones go for £45-120. Paint it black-out (algae needs light) and elevate on cinder blocks for gravity pressure. Two totes = a month of buffer.
Roof note: metal/tile roofs are best; avoid collecting from asphalt shingles for drinking if you can, or rely on filtration below.
Make ANY water safe — layered methods, cheapest to fanciest
Rule: filter (removes particles/protozoa/bacteria) then disinfect (kills viruses). For rainwater or clear stream water, one good filter is usually enough; for pond/floodwater do both.
Boiling — the gold standard, costs only fuel. Rolling boil for 1 minute (3 min above 2,000 m altitude). Kills everything. Doesn't remove chemicals or mud — pre-filter through cloth.
Gravity filters for base camp: Sawyer bucket adapter kit (£15-28 + any bucket) is the budget king. Platypus GravityWorks (£100-130) or a British Berkefeld stainless gravity filter (Doulton) with black elements (£180-280, elements also reduce chemicals) for household volume.
Purification tablets (Aquatabs, ~£10/50) — featherweight backup for bags.
SODIS (free): clear PET bottle, full sun, 6 hours (2 days if overcast) — UV kills pathogens. Slow but costs nothing; good for Phase 3.
DIY biosand/charcoal filter (near-free): bucket or cut bottle layered top-to-bottom: cloth → gravel → coarse sand → fine sand → crushed charcoal from your fire → cloth. Improves clarity/taste and removes a lot of biology; still boil or bleach after.
Solar still / transpiration bags (emergency only): pit + plastic sheet + centre stone dripping into a cup, or a clear bag tied over leafy (non-toxic) tree branches — yields are small (0.5–1 L/day) but it's distilled.
Going deeper
Everything above is from the household playbook. What follows expands on it.
The page above gives the figure and the kit. This is the part underneath it: what the figure means, where it stops being true, and the decisions it does not make for you.
What 4 litres actually buys
4 litres per person per day is a survival ration, not a living ration. It is the right number to plan the emergency store around, and it is worth being clear about what it is buying, because the gap between surviving and living on it is where households come unstuck in the second week rather than the second day.
The humanitarian standard for people in camps, which is the closest well-studied comparison to a household with no mains, is 15 litres per person per day covering drinking, cooking and personal hygiene. Of that, drinking and food account for 2.5 to 3 litres and basic hygiene for 2 to 6 litres. Below about 5 litres a day, the assessment is that hygiene cannot be assured at all.
So the 4 litre figure is honest about the store and quiet about the consequence. Two weeks at 4 litres means two weeks of no laundry, no proper washing, and hand hygiene done from a cup. That is survivable and it is also the exact condition in which the sanitation and skin problems in the medical domain start.
Plan the store at 4, plan the supply at 10. The store is what you buy and stack now; the supply is rainwater, a filter and a route to more. They are different problems and the single figure hides that.
Who needs more than the headline
The number is a household average, and averages are the wrong tool for the people most at risk.
Anyone with vomiting or diarrhoea needs considerably more, and needs it as small sips continuously rather than as a volume. This is the commonest way a household emergency turns medical.
Anyone with a fever. Fluid loss rises with temperature.
Pregnant and breastfeeding women. Breastfeeding in particular adds a real daily requirement, and it is the one nobody plans for.
Small children, who dehydrate faster than adults from the same illness because they hold less to begin with.
Older people, whose thirst sensation is less reliable, so waiting until they ask is waiting too long.
Anyone doing hard physical work, which in a crisis means whoever is carrying, digging or clearing.
The first hour
The parent page is written for a household that has prepared. This section is for the one that has not, or that has and is now watching it happen.
The moment there is any reason to think the supply is at risk, fill everything. Mains pressure is not yours to keep. You do not control the interval between a problem starting and the taps stopping, and it is routinely shorter than people expect.
The bath, with a bladder if you have one and without if you do not. A bath holds more than every bottle in the house put together.
Every pan, kettle, jug, bucket and clean bin. Cover them.
The washing machine and dishwasher are not water stores. Do not count them.
Fill the kettle last and boil it, so you have sterile water without spending fuel later.
Stop flushing on every use. One flush is 6 to 9 litres, which is more than a person's whole daily drinking ration going into the sewer.
Then turn off the incoming stop tap if there is any chance of contamination in the mains, such as a burst main nearby or a boil-water notice, so the pipework you have just filled does not draw in whatever is in the street.
Water already in the system is yours. The cold pipes drain from the lowest tap in the house, and there may be a good deal of it. The hot water cylinder, if you have one, holds a large volume and is a job for an adult who knows where the drain cock is and has turned the immersion off first.
What fails first is not thirst
Households plan for thirst. Thirst is not what stops them.
Sanitation fails first, because the toilet is the largest single consumer of water in the house and the first thing to become unusable. The twin-bucket system exists for exactly this, and the reason it appears in the sanitation domain rather than here is that it is a waste problem, not a water problem. Solving it removes the biggest draw on the store at a stroke.
Then hand washing, which is the point at which a water shortage becomes an illness. It is also the one people economise on first, because it feels like the least urgent use.
Then cooking, which quietly assumes water you had planned to drink: dried pulses, rice and pasta all need volume, and the water used to cook them is not wasted if you keep it.
Then morale. Being unwashed for a fortnight in a cold house does something to a household that no chart shows, and a strip wash from a bowl of warm water is worth more than its litres.
Running a rotation that does not lapse
The parent page says rotate every 6 to 12 months. The honest problem with that instruction is that it is a chore with no deadline, which is the kind that does not get done.
What is actually happening in the container. Tap water arrives chlorinated. Sealed in a clean, opaque, food-grade container, kept cool and dark, there is nothing in there to feed anything. It does not go off the way food does. What degrades is the residual disinfectant, the taste, and eventually the container itself, and light is what turns a stored bottle green.
Make it a date, not a duty. The rotation that survives is the one attached to something that already happens: the clocks changing, twice a year, is the standard trick and it works. Empty onto the garden, rinse, refill, done in twenty minutes for a household store.
Label every container with the date it was filled, in pen on tape. An unlabelled store is one nobody trusts, and water nobody trusts gets thrown away and replaced far more often than it needs to be.
Working out your own number
Multiply out your own household rather than accepting the per person figure, because the answer changes what you buy.
Days x people x litres. Two adults and two children for two weeks at 4 litres is 224 litres, which is eleven 20 litre containers and takes up more floor than most people picture. At 10 litres it is 560 litres, which is not a stack of jerry cans at all, it is a tank and a way of refilling it.
That is the real decision this page exists to force. A fortnight of stored water is a shopping trip. Anything beyond a fortnight is not storage, it is supply: a rainwater system, a filter, and a source you have already identified and walked to.
Sphere Handbook humanitarian standard: 15 litres per person per day for drinking, cooking and personal hygiene, with survival needs of 2.5 to 3 litres for drinking and food and 2 to 6 litres for basic hygiene
WHO service level guidance: below 5 litres per person per day, health concern is very high and hygiene cannot be assured; around 20 litres allows basic hygiene; 50 litres or more meets most needs
Fluid requirement rises with fever, vomiting and diarrhoea, and dark, concentrated, infrequent urine is the practical household sign of inadequate intake
A single UK toilet flush uses 6 to 9 litres, more than a person's entire daily drinking ration
Chlorinated tap water sealed in clean food-grade opaque containers does not spoil; rotation guidance exists for container integrity, taste and residual disinfectant rather than because the water goes off
Mains water pressure is not maintained by the household, so the interval between a failure starting and the taps stopping is not under the household's control